Shunkoen

At 春光園, fragrant steam rises from the hot plate as monjayaki and okonomiyaki take centre stage, joined by grilled meat and a range of Korean-style small dishes. Despite the teppan cooking, the dining room is kept clean and free of a greasy feel, creating a relaxed setting for a meal.

To get the table going, choose from the varied monjayaki and okonomiyaki. A favourite is the 明太もちチーズもんじゃ, or mentaiko, mochi and cheese monjayaki. Salty pollock roe, melting cheese and mochi come together in a hearty dish. For okonomiyaki, the すじネギ天 pairs beef tendon simmered in a sweet-and-savoury sauce with green onions. The 五目天 is topped generously with pork, shrimp, squid, octopus and other seafood. Each is grilled until fragrant.

There is more than batter-based teppan fare: the menu also has a strong selection of grilled meat and snacks, with the feel of a yakiniku restaurant. Start with 特製ネギタン塩 (special green-onion tongue with salt) or 砂肝ポンズ (gizzard with ponzu) as drinks arrive, then add kimchi such as 長芋キムチ (Japanese yam kimchi) and some namul. The range of bites makes lingering around the hot plate all the more enjoyable. For a toast, there is chilled draft beer, the 丸ごと凍らせ メガレモンサワー—a refreshing mega lemon sour made with a whole frozen lemon—and makgeolli. The drinks are well suited to the dishes’ rich flavours.

With both table seating and tatami rooms, the layout works well for groups and family meals. 春光園 opens in the evening on weekdays and from lunchtime until midnight on Saturdays and Sundays. It is a welcome option for a leisurely evening over generous teppan-grilled dishes.